Jacket

Item number Ed1.317 from the MOA: University of British Columbia.

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Description

Jacket, or blouse, made of off-white and gold brocade with an overall pattern of small flowers. Long sleeves that curve upwards at the wrists. The centre opening has front panels that overlap to the right when closed. The right side has a long, wide ribbon tie attached where the outer facing meets the front edge. The left outer facing is flush with the front edge, while the right protrudes beyond the edge. One small white tie is attached to the right inner facing with a corresponding tie on the left underarm seam. The inside lining is white rayon with a small diamond pattern.

History Of Use

Jeogori made of extravagant fabrics were favoured in the postwar period, to be worn as formal wear. Heavy, shiny rayon called “Yang-dan” was very popular and famous at that time. During the 1950s the underarm seams were longer than those worn both previously and later, and the garment as a whole was wider, making it more comfortable. Formal wear, however, retained the shorter underarm seams and shorter length. The curve at the lower edge of the sleeve was deeply rounded at this time. Graceful curves, like those at the lower and front edges of this garment, are important in Korean aesthetics and reflected in various forms, including architecture. Clothing in these colours was normally worn by middle-aged or older women.

Specific Techniques

The garment is machine sewn except for the blanket stitches securing the front edges to the lining.

Narrative

Worn by Norma Elrod while living in Korea. This jacket would be worn with skirt Ed1.318. Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing.