Gift of Frederic B. Pratt

Gift of Charlotte Elizabeth Dudley

This skirt would be worn wrapped from back around the sides. The open front would then be covered by a fringed apron. This skirt shows signs of much wear. Most of the materials it is made from are from local sources with the exception of two copper discs, shaped and cut like the abalone. All the ornaments in addition to being aesthetically pleasing would make a sound as the woman moved in the dance. A small blue bead is fastened in the fringe.

This shirt is constructed with very little tailoring. It is left open at the sides and a triangular bib is sewn on at the neck. This bib is decorated with blue pony beads, patterned with rows of triangles. Strips made of porcupine quillwork and maidenhair fern stems have been placed on the arms, shoulders and as epaulets. Long buckskin fringes have been added at the sides of the shirt, the bottom, and the sleeves. The shirt is dyed a yellowish-orange color. On the proper right side, many narrow, brown, horizontal bands that are bisected at one end have been painted. These have been said to stand for horse whips. On the proper left, four hourglass shapes, almost completely filled in with black, have been painted. They have been said to stand for cloth or blankets. The triangular neck flap is beaded somewhat differently from front to back. The front shows two rows of triangles whereas the back includes a third row that contains two triangles. The blue beads visually square off the pointed end of the skin and are similar to the design on Jarvis shirt 50.67.1a.

Coiled vessel of slightly elongated globular form and woven in shades of brown with arrowhead and grain motifs depicting "Hunting in the Harvest Time". There are twenty-nine stitches to the inch. This is called a degikup basket a larger basket that curves towards the top and totally covered by the design a spherical, non-utilitarian basket produced by the technique of coiling.- and totally covered by the design a style Dat So La Lee (Louisa Keyser) invented. The primary basketry material is willow (Salix spp.), which is used to create the rods (warp) and the threads (weft). Bracken fern (Pteris aquilinium) and red bud (Cercis occidentalis) are the two primary materials used for the red and black decorative elements; both are processed into thread, which is spliced into the willow threads to create patterns on the light willow background. The three-rod technique, the form used originally and predominantly by the weavers of this period for the degikup, uses three willow stems to form the coils, which are curved along the horizontal plane and then sewn together with thread to create vertical height. Later artists switched to a one-rod technique, which produces a basket of somewhat less sculptural depth. The one-rod technique is less difficult and time intensive to produce, although not easy or quick by any means. The switch in styles reflected a response to the demands of the market. The provenance on this basket is definite (see provenance section). It is done in a style used for her major works between 1898 and 1916, involving a round shape, fine stitching (around 30 stitches per inch and either scattered or vertically arranged patterns of small design units. The arrow like forms are ripe grain, ripe harvest. the points on the end are arrow points for hunting.

This white buckskin shirt, with the faint remnants of a pinkish stain in the general shoulder area, has a squared cloth bib and cuffs made of red Stroud cloth. This bib has been attached with knotted lengths of buckskin thong. Both bib and cuffs are decorated with white seed beads and additional pony beads are sewn onto the bib. A line of chain stitch embroidery in blue decorates the bib at the front while the back of the bib is plain. A rosette on the front center of the shirt is decorated with reddish-orange and white porcupine quills and brown maidenhair fern stems that are in a configuration that probably represent a thunderbird. Bird quills in white, green, and brown are wrapped around the rawhide strips that are suspended from each shoulder. Additional fringe is inserted in each sleeve seam, which is wrapped at the base with red bird quills and white porcupine quills. Four long, pierced strips, two suspended under each sleeve, are also fringed. Horizontal reddish stripes are painted on the back of the shirt. A rectangular shaped repair, which appears to be of native origin, located on the front of the proper right shoulder, has been reattached to the long pierced tab by a knotted string of hide that matches the existing fringe. See Jarvis research file in Arts of Americas office.

This pair of leggings was acquired as a set with shirt 50.67.1a. Like most men's leggings they extend from the top of the foot to the top of the hip and were meant to be fastened at the waist with a belt. The leggings are long enough that a large portion of skin hung over the wearer's belt and fit the leg tightly. The bottom tabs are actually the forelegs of the animal and they might be left to drag behind or rolled up and tied around the ankle. The proper left legging is colored red, while on the right it is a dark brown and this creates a mirror image of the colors on the matching shirt. Both leggings are painted with brown vertical stripes. The pinkish cast over both leggings and shirt has been reported to be earth paint; the brown identified as possibly limonite found in shallow pond bottoms or at the edges of bogs. The stripes seem to be applied with a stiff instrument, perhaps a bone brush. A large black and white (eagle?) feather is attached to one legging. Scalp locks are fastened in a series, as a fringe on the outside of the legs. See Jarvis report in Arts of Americas files.