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Chadri Shawl2878/20

Large, black women's shawl, or veil, with a rectangular embroidery panel centred along the straight edge (when worn this panel falls around the head/face of the wearer). There are four main sections to the design of the panel which are separated by gold stitching: the section closest to the outer edge is two lines of red and green cotton; the largest section of design has light orange, green and red cotton sewn into the embroidery, the main pattern of which consists of gold diamond and rectangular shapes; on the outer edge of the four sections there are triangle and arrow shapes. On the interior of the semi-circular shawl, around the top, there is a small piece of cotton material with a blue background and red and green flowers, sewn as a lining where the shawl would rest on top of the wearer's head. The inside edges of the shawl are also lined: the front seams are lined with a narrow strip of red fabric, and the bottom seams are lined with a narrow strip of blue fabric. On the exterior surface of the shawl, extending out from the central embroidery panel, there is a hand-sewn geometric design consisting of three V-shaped sets of linear patterns. Each of these is a different colour (from closest to the embroidery panel out: light blue, light orange and light yellow). All three consist of two lines and there are flower-like designs sewn on the outside edge of each of the lines. The yellow lines, which are the closest to the bottom of the shawl, have two snail shell designs that extend down from the two main lines.

Culture
Pashtun: Kuchi
Material
cotton fibre
Made in
Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Saddlebag2878/19

Red saddlebag with five tassels, rectangular in shape with a tapered point at the bottom edge. A geometric design embroidered in the centre portion of the bag represents a “cow in the tree/bush” motif. The design itself is embroidered with brown sheep’s wool yarn. A light brown yarn is stitched around the design as a border. There are five tassels at the base of the bag each with three sections of horse hair. Around each of the tassels there is a blue, yellow and red pattern wrapped around the tassel itself. Many of the tassels are knotted. The horse hair is tied to the tassel with a red-orange piece of material. The bag also has a strap that has light brown, orange, yellow and green lines. On either side of the bag where the strap begins are three tassels each with a different coloured end (orange blue and yellow). Also attached to the tassels are several beads (black and white) and round metal discs.

Culture
Kyrgyz
Material
sheep wool fibre, horse hair, goat hair, metal and glass
Made in
Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Earrings2878/9 a-b

Pair of brass earrings, each made of a single cylindrical length of metal, bent into an elliptical-shaped hook at the top end. A metal wire is wrapped closely around the length of each earring, and there is a brass ball at the base of the length.

Culture
Nuristani
Material
brass metal
Made in
Nuristan, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Hat811/19

Woman’s embroidered hat or headdress, consisting of a skull cap with a long, wide ‘tail’ or extension in the back. The skull cap is made of black cotton textile, which is gathered at the top to fit the shape of the head, and there is an elaborate embroidered, crown-like topknot in the centre. The ‘tail’ or extension is attached to the back of the cap from approximately ear to ear and tapers to a narrow, squared-off end at the wearer’s waist. There is a triangular embroidered motif at the centre back where the extension meets the cap at the base of the skull. On the extension, triangular and diamond-shaped embroidered motifs are worked in bright pink and red silk floss, with small accents of green and yellow, and are arranged horizontally in narrow rows down the length of the extension. The embroidery stitches are so densely worked that very little of the background textile is visible. The extension is backed with a coarsely woven textile made of a bast fibre, perhaps jute. There is a small amount of silver thread embroidery on the crown.

Culture
Kyrgyz
Material
silk fibre ?, cotton fibre, dye, jute fibre ?, metal and rayon fibre ?
Made in
Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dress Panel Textile1201/30

Densely embroidered square textile, stitched overall with meandering patterns worked in orange thread in chain stitch on a background of purple silk or cotton textile. The design field is divided into four equally sized squares, separated from one another with rows of narrow gold metallic braid. The textile is embellished with five large (4 cm) ornamental discs, made from several layers of black cotton textile, topped with a layer of red cotton textile and embellished with white cowrie shells, blue glass beads and white shell buttons; one of these discs is located at the centre of each of the four sides of the textile, and there is one in the centre. The textile is edged with blue and white glass beading on all four sides. The embroidery is backed with a layer of dark red cotton textile.

Culture
Pashtun
Material
glass, cotton fibre, dye, silk fibre, shell, metal and cowrie shell
Made in
Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Hair Bag811/18

Long, flat, tapered, embroidered bag made of black cotton textile, embellished on one side with clusters of flowers, leaves and stems. The wide end of the bag is open and there is a 37 cm narrow loop of the same black cotton textile attached at either end of the opening. The closed, narrow end of the bag is embellished with bands of embroidery, sequins, glass beads and cotton fringe.

Culture
Pashtun ?
Material
cotton fibre, dye, metal, glass and silk fibre
Made in
Ghazni, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Cuff1201/10

A densely embroidered, multi-coloured cuff, consisting of a wide band (12.5 cm) joined to form a cylindrical shape. Embroidered designs in the form of large X’s and asterisk-shapes, worked in red floss outlined in light gray-green on brown cotton textile, alternate in the central design field, and there are bands of red, orange and light gray-green embroidered geometric designs at the edges. There are two large pompoms, one orange and one red, sewn to the seam where the two ends of the band are joined.

Culture
Nuristani ?
Material
silk fibre, dye and cotton fibre
Made in
Nuristan, Afghanistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Purse811/12

Embroidered and beaded wallet-style purse, long and narrow in shape, with a triangular flap at one end. The outside is embellished with panels of predominantly red embroidery representing flowers, leaves and vines, worked on a green fibre broadcloth background and edged with couched silver metallic threads. The wallet is edged with multi-coloured glass beads. The inside of the wallet is divided into two compartments, each closed with a flap, plus one long inner compartment that extends the full length of the purse. The embroidery on the inside is the same style as on the outside. The flaps are edged with multi-coloured embroidery. The compartments are lined with machine-printed textiles.

Culture
Pashtun ?
Material
cotton fibre ?, rayon fibre ?, dye, wool fibre ?, metal, glass and silk fibre ?
Made in
Ghazni, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Bag1201/25

Small, flat, rectangular, embroidered bag, with beaded edges. Made by folding an embroidered piece in half and seaming two edges, leaving the fourth edge open. Three edges are trimmed with small multicoloured glass beads, while the opening is trimmed with small blue beads. The embroidery is worked in horizontal bands, separated by rows of silver braid and rickrack. The sides of the bag are virtually identical. The embroidery is backed with faded pink cotton textile.

Culture
Pashtun
Material
silk fibre, dye, glass, cotton fibre and metal
Made in
Ghazni, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Purse1201/21

Small embroidered and beaded wallet, made from red cotton textile, embroidered with dark yellow, orange, purple and grey geometric designs. The ‘body’ of the wallet is rectangular in shape which is intended to be folded in thirds, and one short end is extended to form a triangular flap. All edges are trimmed with bright blue and white small glass beads. The inside of the wallet has two compartments, one long and one short. The wallet is lined with red printed cotton and silk textiles.

Culture
Pashtun
Material
silk fibre, glass, dye and cotton fibre
Made in
Ghazni, Afghanistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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