Item number 1559/2 from the MOA: University of British Columbia.
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Rectangular embroidered and appliquéd textile panel, decorated with mirrors and edged with closely-spaced cowrie shells on three sides; the top edge is has a fibre loop attachment at the left corner. The design in the centre of the panel consists of two square motifs, embellished with rows of mirrors on a red and dark yellow background. A border design of embroidered and appliquéd bands and mirrors surrounds the central motifs. There are three 'tassels' made of clusters of bell-shaped pompoms of fine cotton thread and suspended from twisted fibre cords, evenly spaced on the 'bottom' edge; the tassels are trimmed with cowrie shells and metal beads.
Panels like this one have many uses, e.g. wedding-pot cover ritual table cover, etc. The presence of a loop at one corner suggests that this panel had a specific use. A ceremonial panel is sometimes called a dhavalo cloth, with reference to the dhavalo songs, prayers, and cows of mourning traditionally undertaken by a new bride.
Used at ceremonial occasions, i.e. weddings, funerals, etc.
The use of cowrie shells (a form of wealth) as decoration is an indicator of the the panel's importance as a ritual object.
Purchased on the street in Gujarat.
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